Prep the tofu. Drain and press 15 minutes for a firmer texture that holds up in the simmer. Pat dry and cut into 1/2-inch-thick rectangles or triangles — shapes that can be flipped in the pan without breaking.
Pan-fry. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Fry the tofu in a single layer, 3 minutes per side, until golden. Do not crowd the pan — work in batches. Transfer to a plate.
Start the sauce. In the same pan, lower the heat to medium, add a little more oil if needed, and soften the garlic for about 30 seconds. Add the diced tomatoes and tomato paste. Cook, stirring, until the tomatoes break down and release their juices, 4 minutes. Add the 2 tbsp water only if the sauce looks too dry.
Season. Stir in the fish sauce (or the plant-based substitute), sugar, and black pepper. Taste — it should be savory first, with the tomato's tang and just a little sweetness behind it.
Simmer the tofu. Return the tofu to the pan, spoon sauce over it, and simmer gently 6 minutes so the tofu absorbs the sauce. Add the scallions in the last 2 minutes.
Serve hot over steamed rice.